[London] Even though this restaurant is helmed by a Mexica chef serving ‘Mexican food’, do not expecting the typical tortillas and tostada.
KOL in Marylebone, offers a vibrant and experimental approach to Mexican cuisine.
Ranked No. 17 in “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants”, it stands out for blending traditional Mexican flavours and locally sourced British ingredients.
It also has one Michelin star.
Chef Santiago Lastra’s vision is evident from the first bite to the last, where dishes come not only with bold flavours but often a surprising and inventive twist.
Entering the restaurant, the setting is stylish. It features warm earth tones that create an inviting atmosphere, with a buzzing open kitchen adding to the overall sense of theatre.
Service at KOL is attentive without being overbearing.
The staff are knowledgeable and can guide you through the menu’s intricacies, making sure the experience is as educational as it is indulgent.
However, as with any high-end restaurant, KOL does come with a hefty price tag.
A set menu starts with £185.
The tasting menu at KOL is an ambitious offering, and diners should be prepared for dishes that push boundaries, often in surprising ways.
The Blue Mussel Oblea was one of the first dishes I tried. These delicate toasted corn wafers filled with mussels, new potatoes, and tarragon were a gentle introduction.
Next came the Cornish Squid, presented in a style that mimicked a dumpling rather than a traditional taco – the taco is interestingly steamed.
The squid, lightly grilled and served with a camelina seed puree and fermented beetroot, was tender yet bold.
The Girasol dish, which featured courgette ice cream and sunflower and finished with caviar, was one of the more playful courses.
It is a reinterpretation of guacamole and chips.
The ice cream was creamy, with a mild sweetness from the courgette. The creativity behind this dish was clear.
The scallop dish, Pitaya, was a highlight.
The sweet Scottish scallop was complemented by a mole made from red currants and a smoked roe infusion. The combination of the fruit and seafood was balanced and interesting, providing a much-needed depth of flavour.
The red currants and wild roses brought such a brightness to the dish.
The Langoustine Taco was my personal high point of the meal.
The langoustine, sourced from the Isle of Skye, was roasted with garlic and smoked chilli, giving it a lovely smoky depth.
Served with a sourdough tortilla and a seabuckthorn juice, this dish was both complex and comforting. The addition of the langoustine head to squeeze over the taco was a nice touch.
For dessert, the Tamal was enjoyable. The brown butter corn steamed cake was light and fluffy, with a nice richness from the butter.
Paired with buttermilk ice cream and strawberries, it provided a sweet, satisfying end to the meal.
KOL may not be for everyone — especially those expecting traditional Mexican staples like nachos and burritos.
But for food lovers seeking something extraordinary, it can be a place that stays with you long after you leave.
KOL Restaurant
9 Seymour St, London W1H 7BA, United Kingdom
Opening Hours: 5:45pm – 12am (Tues), 12pm – 4pm, 5:45pm – 12am (Wed – Sat), Closed Sun, Mon
Google Maps – KOL Restaurant
Click HERE for other LONDON Food Entries
* Follow @DanielFoodDiary on Facebook, Instagram, Youtube and Telegram for more food news, food videos and travel highlights. DFD paid for food reviewed unless otherwise stated.
